Culture · Living Culture

The Women Who Paint the Walls

In Sirigu the houses are round and made of earth, and the women paint them.

Sirigu, near Bolgatanga.

Listening to The Women Who Paint the Walls

The Women Who Paint the Walls

Story 1 of 1

0:001:25
Playback speed
Read transcript

The Women Who Paint the Walls

In Sirigu the houses are round and made of earth, and the women paint them.

Not decoration — the painting is part of the building. After the rains the walls are re-plastered and then finished by hand in black, red and white made from local earths, mud, soot and a binding of dawadawa pod, and then burnished with a stone until the surface is hard and sheds water. A painted wall lasts. An unpainted one does not.

The patterns have names and the names are things. Wanzagsɛ, the broken calabash: a woman's most useful possession, and even broken it still works — so, a woman's worth is not diminished by hardship. The python, for protection. The cow, for wealth. The nets, the zigzags, the triangles that are the scales of a crocodile. A woman learns them from her mother and her mother's co-wives, on the wall, with her hands.

It was fading. In 1997 the women of the village organised — SWOPA, the Sirigu Women's Organisation of Pottery and Art — and now they paint, teach, sell, and run a guesthouse in a painted compound where you can sleep inside the art form and get a lesson in the morning.

If you visit Ghana. Sirigu, near Bolgatanga.

In Sirigu the houses are round and made of earth, and the women paint them.

Not decoration — the painting is part of the building. After the rains the walls are re-plastered and then finished by hand in black, red and white made from local earths, mud, soot and a binding of dawadawa pod, and then burnished with a stone until the surface is hard and sheds water. A painted wall lasts. An unpainted one does not.

The patterns have names and the names are things. Wanzagsɛ, the broken calabash: a woman's most useful possession, and even broken it still works — so, a woman's worth is not diminished by hardship. The python, for protection. The cow, for wealth. The nets, the zigzags, the triangles that are the scales of a crocodile. A woman learns them from her mother and her mother's co-wives, on the wall, with her hands.

It was fading. In 1997 the women of the village organised — SWOPA, the Sirigu Women's Organisation of Pottery and Art — and now they paint, teach, sell, and run a guesthouse in a painted compound where you can sleep inside the art form and get a lesson in the morning.